Dinant, the Citadel in autumn: 408 steps toward the sky

There are places you gaze at for a long time before deciding to climb them. In Dinant, the Citadel is one such place: perched on a limestone spur, some hundred meters above the Meuse River, it has kept watch over the town for nearly a millennium—unmoved by passing trends or the changing seasons. In October, when the river is cloaked in mist and the cliffs take on copper hues, it becomes all but irresistible.

This autumn, however, travelers face a change: the cable car, which once whisked visitors up in a matter of minutes, has been out of service since October 2025, with renovations expected to take around two years. Should you give up on the visit? Quite the contrary. The Citadel remains open, and the ascent on foot—far from being a chore—offers a slower, more thoughtful way to understand why the Prince-Bishops of Liège chose this particular crag.

Located about twenty minutes from the Bonsoy Bungalows, here is how to approach the fortress in the autumn.

A crag, a thousand years of sieges

The history of the Citadel is that of a town that has always been a coveted prize. An initial fortified castle was built atop the spur around 1040, commissioned by the Bishop of Liège, and completed circa 1080 to protect the town and its bridge over the Meuse River.

In 1466, Charles the Bold razed the castle during the sack of Dinant; therefore, the fortress you visit today is not the original medieval structure, but rather its successor.

Under Louis XIV, at the turn of the 17th century, the town came under French rule, and Vauban redesigned its defenses. However, the silhouette we see today dates from the era of the United Kingdom of the Netherlands: the current citadel was constructed starting in 1818 on the site of the dismantled fort. Dutch additions, which continued until 1821, remain clearly visible in the masonry of the walls.

The Great War, at the heart of the visitor experience

The 20th century has left its mark: the tour includes an area dedicated to the First World War—complete with a simulated trench—as well as dungeons and scenes depicting daily life in the early 19th century. You can also admire a carriage that once belonged to Madame de Maintenon—a fascinating relic of the “Grand Siècle” (the 17th-century golden age) here in the Meuse region.

The Ascent: 408 Steps—and a Good Excuse

Let’s be frank about the staircase. The summit is accessible on foot via 408 steps. It is certainly a demanding climb and not well-suited for those with reduced mobility; however, the ascent—punctuated by landings that reveal the city unfolding beneath your feet—is a spectacle in itself.

• On foot: Plan for a break halfway up, wear closed-toe shoes, and bring a small bottle of water.
• By car: There is a large parking area for cars and coaches at the summit. Please note: due to construction work on Rue du Pont d’Amour, access via Rue Saint-Jacques is currently impossible; you must instead approach via Froidvau and Herbuchenne. Follow the on-site signage.
• Ticketing: Ticket counters are available at both the top and the bottom of the site.

The HistoPad: exploring with a tablet in hand

The visit is self-guided and makes use of the HistoPad—an augmented reality tablet that reconstructs the various historical stages of the fortress right before your eyes. It’s fun for children, informative for adults, and allows you to avoid the crowds often found on guided tours.

Autumn rates and opening hours

Package	Adult	Child (4–12 years old)
Citadel + HistoPad	€15	€13
Group (minimum 20 people)	€13	€11
3-in-1 Package (Citadel, HistoPad, 45-minute cruise)	€25	€20
3-in-1 Package for groups (minimum 20)	€22	€16

From October to March, the Citadel is open every day from 10:00 AM to 4:30 PM. Online ticketing is only available during the high season; outside of this period, please purchase your ticket on-site.

Dinant in autumn: the city, a world away from summer

Descending from the Citadel, you find a city at peace. Terrace cafés grow cozy with blankets, the quays empty out, and the Collegiate Church of Notre-Dame—with its distinctive bulbous bell tower—stands out all the more clearly against the cliffs. It is the perfect time to wander and savor the moment, embracing the unhurried pace of the season.

• Extend your morning by following a trail of eight murals painted along the banks of the Meuse.
• Pick up a snack to take with you: the “couque de Dinant”—a biscuit so hard, you don’t bite into it.
• Venture over to Bouvignes, a medieval town that Dinant once nearly wiped from the map—its former neighbor and rival.
• Discover the home of Monsieur Sax, the inventor of the saxophone and a native son of the city.
• If the weather stays mild, plan to extend your getaway onto the water next spring with a kayak trip down the Lesse River.

As for future plans for the site, management has mentioned the opening of a tea room in the former tavern on the plateau—something to look out for during your next visit!

A One-Day Itinerary

1. Morning — Breakfast at Le Bonsoy, then a drive to Dinant (about 20 minutes). Park at the bottom of the town and climb the 408 steps around 10:00 a.m.—just as it opens—to catch the low, slanting light.
2. Midday — Lunch in the old town, among the quays and narrow streets; be sure to book ahead if visiting on a weekend.
3. Afternoon — A visit to the Citadel using the HistoPad (allow one and a half to two hours). Afterward, if you’re in the mood, opt for the 3-in-1 package, which includes a 45-minute cruise to Anseremme. Keep in mind: the last departure is before the 4:30 p.m. closing time.
4. Evening — Return to the tranquility of Le Bonsoy for some herbal tea by the fireplace—your calves will certainly have earned it!

Editor’s tip: take your time on the way up. The 408 steps are much easier to climb if you count them under your breath rather than cursing them.

Practical information

Staying at Bonsoy after the climb

Once you’ve conquered the 408 steps, there’s nothing quite like the cozy comfort of a chalet. The Woody Lodge, with its warm, wood-filled interior, awaits to offer you some well-deserved rest. For more inspiration around Bonsoy, take a look at our guide to a “slow tourism” getaway in the Upper Meuse valley.

Planning to climb up to the Citadel and looking for the perfect place to stay? Book your stay at Bungalows du Bonsoy—autumn in the Meuse region is waiting for you.

Sources

• Citadel of Dinant — admission fees and opening hours
• La Dernière Heure — Cable car out of service for two years (February 9, 2026)
• Wikipedia — Citadel of Dinant